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Is your Women’s Workwear Label Lying?

Surely clothing labelled women’s fit should fit women? Sadly this is not always the case…

Once upon a time, women’s sizing was created by simply manufacturing a smaller version of men's clothing. But the promise of comfortably fitting workwear for women was still just a fairy tale, a fable designed to placate women in the workplace and pay lip service to equality.

One size cannot fit all…

It was, and still is, a misconception that it is possible to have a unisex garment. Many businesses have tried: Projects conducted for the military, to standardise uniform sizing, scanned hundreds of people but were ultimately unsuccessful due to the huge variations.

An array of differences manifest themselves when attempting to resolve male & female body shapes. Women generally have narrower shoulders, shorter arms and shorter body length with a more shapely upper body. Of course, there are variations to these rules but wearing a man’s jacket of the ‘right size’ results in rolled up sleeves, trailing hems and unflattering fits. (An unflattering fit may sound like a minor issue, but try going to work dressed in an outsize suit with rolled up cuffs, rolled up trousers and gaping excess material, and see how many people take you seriously: Imagine the effect that has psychologically.)

If fact, a good fit of clothing to any body shape requires a match between two (or sometimes three) independent body dimensions and matching these up between the sexes is beyond possible. Men’s trousers are classed by 1. waist size and 2. leg length because man’s waist to hip ratio is generally standard and the dimensions can be more easily predicted, however, women’s waist to hip difference can range dramatically, by several inches.

Women have more curves, their body shapes are defined into categories, pear, oval, hourglass etc. and change over time. Even in footwear, female feet are usually narrower and shorter. Understandably, businesses want to cut costs by streamlining their offerings, limiting the variations in sizing available, meaning that as companies provide fewer options, finding a perfect fit can be increasingly difficult in today’s marketplace.

Standardisation of sizing

Currently, across Europe, several different systems are still used for the size designation and labelling of clothes. This is a confusing situation for customers and creates inefficiencies across the supply chain. Ideally the clothing industry would harmonize and simplify the size labelling of clothes for the benefit of businesses, consumers and the industry generally.

With this aim in mind, British Standard EN 13402-3:2017 describes a flexible sizing system based on body dimensions of men, women, boys and girls using a breakdown of anthropometric data to produce a standard pictogram. The values and intervals provided they take into account the latest anthropometric studies carried out in Belgium, France, Germany, Netherlands, Romania, Spain and Sweden. This is vital as body dimensions are changing over time.

Despite the fact that these should be used as best practice reference points, the fashion industry in Europe and the UK has not completely taken on board BS standard EN13402-3:2017 yet. However, the specialist design team at Anchor Safety use them at the drawing board stage to design the women’s versions of our products so that female workers can be sure of a safe, comfortable and flattering fit which will not make them feel they are at work in a sack!

Details of EN13402-3:2017

Part 1:

Defines the list of body dimensions, measured in cm, to be used for designating clothing sizes, together with an anatomical explanations and measurement guidelines.

Head girth Maximum horizontal girth of the head measured above ears
Neck girth Girth of neck measured with tape measure passed 2 cm below Adam's apple and at the level of the 7th cervical vertebra
Chest girth Maximum horizontal girth measured during normal breathing with the subject standing erect and the tape-measure passed over the shoulder blades (scapulae), under the armpits (axillae), and across the chest
Bust girth Maximum horizontal girth measured during normal breathing with the subject standing erect and the tape-measure passed horizontally, under the armpits (axillae), and across the bust prominence
Underbust girth Horizontal girth of the body measured just below the breasts
Waist girth Girth of the natural waistline between the top of the hip bones (iliac crests) and the lower ribs, measured with the subject breathing normally and standing erect with the abdomen relaxed
Hip girth Horizontal girth measured round the buttocks at the level of maximum circumference
Height Vertical distance between the crown of the head and the soles of the feet, measured with the subject standing erect without shoes and with the feet together (for infants not yet able to stand upright: length of the body measured in a straight line from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet)
Inside leg length Distance between the crotch and the soles of the feet, measured in a straight vertical line with the subject erect, feet slightly apart, and the weight of the body equally distributed on both legs
Arm length Distance, measured using the tape-measure, from the armscye/shoulder line intersection (acromion), over the elbow, to the far end of the prominent wrist bone (ulna), with the subject's right fist clenched and placed on the hip, and with the arm bent at 90
Hand girth Maximum girth measured over the knuckles (metacarpals) of the open right hand, fingers together and thumb excluded
Foot length Horizontal distance between perpendiculars in contact with the end of the most prominent toe and the most prominent part of the heel, measured with the subject standing barefoot and the weight of the body equally distributed on both feet
Body mass Measured with a suitable balance in kilograms

Part 2:

Defines for each type of garment one "primary dimension". This is the body measure according to which the product must be labelled. i.e. Where men's garments use the chest girth, women's clothes are designed for a certain bust girth.

For some types of garment, a single measure may not be sufficient to select the right product. In these cases, one or two "secondary dimensions" (shown in brackets below) can be added to the label. For example:

Item MenWomen
ShirtsNeck girth (Height / arm length)
Blouses
Bust girth (Height)
Trousers Waist girth (Height/inside leg length) Waist girth (height, hip girth, inside leg length)

Part 3:

Defines preferred numbers of primary and secondary body dimensions.

Products should not be labelled with the average body dimension for which the garment was designed (i.e., not "height: 176"). Instead, the label should show the range of body dimensions from half the step size below to half the step size above the design size (e.g., "height: 172-180").

For clothes where a larger step size is sufficient, the standard also defines a letter code. This code represents the bust girth for women and the chest girth for men.

Meaning CodeChest girth (men)Bust girth (women)
extra extra small XXS 70-7866-74
extra small XS 78-8674-82
small S 86-9482-90
medium M 94-10290-98
large L 102-11098-106
extra large XL 110-118107-119
extra extra large XXL 118-129119-131
extra extra extra large 3XL 129-141131-143

For further information, full details of BS EN13402 can be accessed here:
https://landingpage.bsigroup.com/LandingPage/Series?UPI=BS%20EN%2013402